Tick Toxicity in Cats

With the onset of Spring comes the onset of the Tick Season in Brisbane. The Paralysis tick (Ixodes holocyclis) is unique to the east coast of Australia. Where the ticks occur in Australia seems to coincide with where the long- nosed bandicoot has its natural habitat, because this bandicoot can carry the different life- stages of the tick. However other native animals like possums and lizards can also transport the tick. The paralysis tick is also believed to climb trees vertically until it hits an angled branch. It will then follow this branch to the end and can drop off to attach to unsuspecting animals. This might explain why backyards with overhanging trees from a neighbour’s yard may have paralysis ticks, whilst not necessarily having much in the way of trees or possum habitat itself.

The Paralysis Tick (Ixodes holocyclis)

As in most conditions, cats are unique in how they present their signs of illness compared to other species such as dogs. For one thing the ‘paralysis’ aspect of this condition may not be the first sign seen or noticed in the cat. We may therefore refer to this condition as “tick toxicity”, rather than “tick paralysis”. Cats may look as if they are quieter in behaviour than normal, reluctant to take more than a few steps before lying down again. The other important signs to look out for are increased breathing effort and changes in breathing noises, especially a ‘grunting’ sound when breathing out. A ‘wheeze’ or asthmatic sound may also be heard.

Very particular and peculiar to our cats is a throat clearing type of action. Your cats mouth may open wide with a gagging sound, making many owners think their cat has something caught in the throat. This action is happening because the cat’s vocal chords are paralysed and small amounts of saliva or mucus are very irritating on the larynx, making the cat feel like he or she is choking. This can be extremely distressing to your cat, and the more anxious they are, the more difficult it is for them to clear the throat. This is why veterinary attention for your cat often starts with medications to relax and reduce anxiety, after which breathing becomes a while lot easier.

More advanced stages of tick toxicity will include a more obvious difficulty in walking, staggering and swaying. Or your cat may be found lying down on his or her side, unable to sit up at all. Immediate veterinary attention must be sought.

The paralysis ticks themselves are grey in colour with orange legs and head part, with the legs all coming out from the “head” end rather than down the sides of the body. This describes the adult female tick, the main cause of tick toxicity. Larval stages can cause signs of tick toxicity but usually in large numbers, and this occurs much less commonly. The tick itself can be tiny to start but is usually about 4mm across by which time it causes signs of tick toxicity. The tick may have been present for a few days before reaching this size, hence ticks found early and removed may prevent signs of tick toxicity.

Finding ticks in your cat’s coat is best done by “finger walking” through the coat, rather than looking for them visually. The most common areas to find ticks are around the head and neck, around or in the ears, even inside the lips. The next place to look is the front end of the body up to about the level of the elbows. All of these areas are more difficult for the cat to reach and groom. Also the ticks are attracted to carbon dioxide. Hence the other area to look for ticks is around the back end, the bottom, tail and genital area. We are much less likely to find ticks in the ‘middle’ area of the cat, but would advise thorough searching. Cats who go outside in areas where possums and bandicoots are prevalent should be checked for ticks daily.

The availability of commercial products that may help prevent ticks is very limited for cats, and in fact it should be noted that products labeled for use in dogs only for tick prevention can be HIGHLY TOXIC and possibly fatal for your cats. If you wish to discuss use of products for assisiting in tick prevention please call our clinic for a consultation. It is worth noting that there is no single product that can be relied on for tick prevention in cats an ‘finger walking’ is still recommended despite the use of products.

If you find a tick on your cat, despite urban myths and legends, you are advised to pluck the tick off immediately. It is not possible to ‘leave behind the head’ or to ‘inject more toxin’ by doing so. You may use fingers, tweezers, or special tick hooks are available. You are then advised to seek veterinary attention. There is a tick toxin anti- serum that can be administered to your cat, along with other supportive care deemed necessary. It is not the anti- serum alone that treats these affected cats, as this ‘antidote’ can only remove some of the toxin in the blood stream and cannot reverse the toxin already affecting your cat. The overall supportive care for your cat’s breathing and comfort is equally as important as this medication. On average, cats may need two to four days in hospital for a full recovery.

We are happy to report that most cat’s recovery from tick toxicity is excellent. Just as cats present differently to dogs with tick toxicity, they also experience far fewer of the complications that befall their canine cousins. Confirming yet again that cats may indeed enjoy nine lives, with a little help from their friends: you the owner, and your veterinary team.

Regular vaccination is an important part of routine health care for your cat and helps to ensure your cat remains fit and well. Many serious and life-threatening diseases can be prevented by vaccination. In Australia, there are a number of vaccines that are currently available for use in cats to protect against the following diseases:-

Feline Herpes Virus Type 1 (FHV-1; feline rhinotracheitis virus)
Feline Calicivirus ( FCV)
Feline Panleukopenia (feline infectious enteritis; feline parvovirus)
Feline Chlamydial Infection
Feline Leukaemia Virus ( FeLV)
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV)

How do vaccines work?

Vaccines work by exposing the body’s immune system to a particular modified infectious agent.  This causes the white blood cells to react to fight the infection by producing proteins (antibodies) which are able to bind to and neutralise the infectious agent (antigen).  Antibodies work together with other white blood cells (lymphocytes) which are able to identify and kill cells within the body which have become infected by the agent (cell mediated response).  After vaccine exposure, the body ‘remembers’ the particular antigens so that when they are encountered again it can mount a very rapid and strong immune response preventing the cat from showing clinical signs of disease.  It is important to realise that most vaccines work by preventing your cat from becoming ill and may not prevent it from becoming infected.  This means that if a vaccinated cat becomes infected with ‘cat flu’ it may still shed the disease producing organism which can infect unvaccinated animals which will then become ill.  This is not a major consideration in the pet cat but may be important in the breeding colony.

What is the difference between the various types of vaccine?

The 2 major types of vaccines for use in cats are

Modified live vaccines- these vaccines contain live organisms that are weakened (attenuated) so that they do not produce disease but will multiply in the cat’s body. It is not advisable to use modified live vaccines in pregnant queens or cats whose immune system is not working properly e.g. cats infected by feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV).

Killed (inactivated) vaccines - these vaccines are prepared using fully virulent organisms that have been killed by chemicals, UV light or radiation.  Because, on their own, they do not give such a high level of protection, a chemical (adjuvant) is added to the vaccine to stimulate a better immune response.

When should my kitten be vaccinated?

Kittens should be first vaccinated at 6 to 8 weeks and then every 4 weeks until they are 16 weeks or older. For most kittens this will mean 3 vaccinations. A kitten will not be fully protected until 7-10 days after the last vaccination.  Under specific circumstances we may advise an alternative regime.

How often should booster vaccinations be given?

Guidelines for booster vaccinations are constantly being debated around the world. Vaccines currently used in Australia are labelled by the manufacturer to be given every 12 months. We support this and recommend that after the initial series of kitten vaccinations that cats be vaccinated every 12 months.

Will vaccination always protect my cat?

Vaccination will protect the vast majority of cats but under some circumstance vaccine breakdowns will occur.  There are many reasons for this including:-

1.       Variations between different strains of viruses – this is particularly true of FCV where many different strains exist, not all of which are covered by the vaccines available.

2.       Maternally derived antibodies – when a kitten is born it is protected in its early life by antibodies passed from the queen in the first milk (colostrum).  These antibodies can also prevent vaccination from working properly. The amount of colostral antibodies that each kitten receives is variable and so the age at which a kitten can respond to vaccination successfully will also vary.  This is part of the reason why two or three injections are given in the primary course.

3.       The cat was not healthy at the time of vaccination – ’stress’ can prevent a good response to vaccination.  For this reason your vet will give your cat a physical examination before a vaccination is given.

4.       The cat may also be pre-infected with the ‘cat flu’ virus and incubating the disease.

If you feel your cat has contracted an infection for which it is vaccinated then let your veterinary surgeon know.  Investigation to establish why vaccination has possibly failed can be undertaken.

What are the risks of vaccination?

Generally the risks of vaccination are extremely low.  Severe reactions being very rare.  Many cats experience mild reactions at the site of vaccination where a lump may occur that can be painful.  Generalised reactions are sometimes seen, the cat being quiet, lame and often off its food for 24 hours after vaccination.  Occasionally more severe signs occur including vomiting, diarrhoea and profound depression.  Under these circumstances your veterinary practice should be informed.  Vaccine reactions appear to occur more commonly in kittens and some purebred cats.

Which are the most important vaccinations to have?

We suggest all cats be vaccinated against feline herpes virus, feline calicivirus and feline panleukopaenia. This is often referred to as a F3 vaccination.
For outdoor cats, we recommend vaccination against feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV).

Feline respiratory virus infection
Disease is caused by feline herpes virus or feline calicivirus and is commonly termed ‘cat flu’.  It is a common disease in unvaccinated cats and can cause long-term problems, including chronic sneezing, nasal discharge, inflamed eyes and severe gum problems.

Feline panleukopenia infection
This is now an uncommon disease that causes a severe and often fatal gastro-enteritis.  Vaccination provides a high level of long lasting protection.

Feline immunodeficiency virus infection
All outdoor cats are susceptible to infection with FIV if bitten by an infected cat unless        protected by vaccination against the virus. The initial vaccination is followed up by 2       more vaccinations 2-4 weeks apart and then with annual boosters. FIV vaccines can be          given at the same time as regular F3 vaccinations.

Feline Chlamydial infection
This tends to be a particular problem in colony cats. Chlamydial infection causes a painful inflammation and swelling of the conjunctiva (the membrane around the eye) and has been associated with infertility in queens. This vaccine can make many cats sick for several weeks and only suggest vaccination in certain circumstances.

Feline leukaemia virus infection
FeLV causes suppression of the immune system, cancer of the white bloods cells and          solid tumors. It is an extremely rare disease in Australia seen mainly in colonies. We    only suggest vaccination for FeLV for at-risk cats.

Regular vaccination is an important part of routine health care for your cat and helps to ensure your cat remains fit and well.

Rhett Marshall BVSc MACVSc
The Cat Clinic
189 Creek Road,
Mt Gravatt, 4122

Basic information

• Glargine must not be diluted or mixed with anything because the prolonged action is dependent on its pH
• Glargine has a shelf-life of 4 weeks after opening and kept at room temperature. Refrigeration prolongs its shelf-life and allows opened vials to be used for up to 6 months. The manufacturer however recommends discarding opened vials after 4 weeks
• When performing a blood glucose curve, samples probably only need to be taken every 4hrs over 12 hr in many cats (ie. 0h [before morning insulin], 4h, 8h and 12h after morning insulin)
• Dose changes should be made based on pre-insulin glucose concentration, nadir (lowest) glucose concentration, daily water drunk, and urine glucose concentration.
• Better glycaemic control is achieved with twice daily dosing rather than once daily
• More accurate dosing may be achieved using 0.3ml U-100 insulin syringes

Indications for starting glargine

• All newly diagnosed diabetic cats (to increase chance of remission)
• Poorly controlled or unstable diabetic cats (glargine’s long duration of action is likely to benefit these cats)
• When SID dosing is desired or demanded (glycaemic control and remission rates are higher if glargine is dosed BID)
• Ketoacidosis – replaces regular insulin and can be used IM or IV
• When corticosteroid administration is required in cats at high risk of developing clinical signs of diabetes or cats in remission.

For initial insulin dose,

• BG > 20mmol/L à start with 0.5U/kg ideal body weight twice daily (BID)
• BG < 20mmol/L à start with 0.25U/kg ideal body weight BID

Blood glucose should be sampled every 3-4hrs for several days, either at home or in hospital. Dose reductions can be made (based on the blood glucose parameters in Table 1) but it is suggested that you do not increase the dose until about 7 days of therapy as many cats have negligible glucose lowering effect in the first few days despite being on an adequate dose of insulin.

After this, cats should have their blood glucose sampled weekly (or more frequently) as outpatients and insulin dose adjusted according to Table 1. If biochemical hypoglycaemia develops and is not severe, it can usually be managed by feeding the cat a higher carbohydrate containing meal. Renal diets and many supermarket lines of dry food are high in carbohydrates. Clinical hypoglycaemia requires immediate IV glucose therapy.

Table 1. Blood glucose parameters used for adjusting insulin dose

Urine glucose measurements
With the long duration of action of glargine, there should be minimal periods when blood glucose is >14mmol/L (240mg/dL) for cats treated for more than 2 to 3 weeks, and hence well controlled cats should almost always be 0 or 1+ for urine glucose. A value 2+ or greater likely indicates that an increase in dose is required.

Serial blood glucose curves or single blood glucose sampling?
The aim of dosing, when using shorter-acting insulins, is to select the maximum dose that can be safely given without causing hypoglycaemia. To determine this, we use nadir glucose (lowest) and aim for 7-10mmol/L. A serial blood glucose curve is required to determine the nadir hence single outpatient blood glucose samples have traditionally been considered meaningless.

After several days of glargine therapy, the long duration of action and carry-over effects (Marshall et al, 2008) usually results in a flatter blood glucose curve and a much smaller difference between pre-insulin levels and the nadir. For this reason, most cats can be monitored as outpatients with single blood glucose sampling. In most cats, glargine exerts its peak effect approximately 14hrs after injection (Marshall et al, 2008), so sampling blood glucose just prior to injection is recommended. This also allows insulin dose to be changed immediately (if required) rather than waiting until the next injection. Single glucose sampling provides less information than a serial curve but has the added benefit of reduced stress for the cat and costs for the owner as no hospitalisation is required. Confusing or unexpected single glucose samples should be investigated with a serial blood glucose curve.

How to recognise and approach remission
Good glycemic control soon after diagnosis reverses glucose toxicity and many newly-diagnosed diabetic cats can have their insulin dose gradually reduced and many can have their insulin completely withdrawn. It is suggested that insulin not be withdrawn completely for at least two weeks after starting insulin therapy to ensure adequate time for beta cells to recover from glucose toxicity.

Insulin dose can be reduced when indicated by low blood glucose parameters listed above. If pre-insulin glucose is below 10mmol/L and insulin dose has been reduced to 1U, insulin should be withheld and blood glucose measured for 12hrs (if the pre-insulin glucose is below 10mmol/L and insulin dose greater than 1U, insulin dose should be reduced to 1U rather than withheld and pre-insulin glucose measured again in 3-7 days). In most cases, if when insulin is withheld the blood glucose concentration

• rises rapidly or significantly over 10mmol/L cats should be discharged on 1U twice daily
• rises slowly towards or just above 10mmol/L, then cats should be discharged on 1U once daily
• remains below 10mmol/L for 12hrs with no insulin, they can be assumed to be non-insulin dependant and cats should be discharged without insulin with their blood glucose monitored every 2-3 days for several weeks. Confirmed non-insulin dependant diabetic cats should have their blood glucose checked weekly for 3 months and then monthly forever.

Some cats may have a pre-insulin glucose concentration below 10mmol/L within 2 weeks, but insulin therapy should be maintained for at least 2 weeks to give beta cells adequate time to recover from glucose toxicity. Use 1U BID or SID until insulin is withdrawn.

What to do with the diabetic cat in remission
Once remission has occurred, it is vital that blood glucose concentration be measured regularly (initially weekly then monthly) to quickly diagnose a relapse. To facilitate the cat remaining in diabetic remission, it is recommended that a low carbohydrate diet is fed, physical activity is increased, calories are restricted to avoid obesity, and that diabetogenic drugs are contraindicated unless a life threatening situation arises.

How to increase the chance of remission
Our study in diabetic cats (Marshall et al, awaiting publication) found better glycaemic control and higher remission rates when newly diagnosed diabetic cats were treated with glargine compared to lente or PZI insulins. This study also showed that, regardless of insulin type, good glycaemic control soon after diagnosis (within 3 weeks) increases the chance of achieving remission.

For reasons that are presently unknown, glargine treated cats appear to tolerate slight overdosing with insulin very well. For this reason, it is suggested that for the first 4-6 weeks of therapy, insulin be slightly overdosed and cats monitored carefully. Slightly overdosing with glargine increases the risk of hypoglycemia but usually results in achieving early good glycemic control which reverses glucose toxicity and results in a non-insulin dependant state. The benefits of remission far outweighs the risks of hypoglycaemia.

To maximise glycaemic control and hence the chance of remission

• select glargine as initial insulin
• administer glargine TWICE daily rather than once daily
• slightly overdose with insulin for the first 4-6 weeks
• use a low carbohydrate diet
• restrict calories if overweight and encourage physical activity

Concurrent corticosteroid administration
Corticosteroid administration causes insulin resistance and should be avoided in diabetic cats. When required, local or topically acting preparations should be used to reduce systemic levels. Budesonide (1mg/cat sid or bid) is useful for treating inflammatory bowel disease. Asthmatic cats should be treated with inhaled steroids such as Flixotide (Fluticasone proprionate) which maximises the concentration of steroid delivered to the respiratory mucosa without significant systemic release.

Glargine is very useful to use in cats requiring intermittent or chronic corticosteroid administration that are either in remission or at risk of developing diabetes. Most cats can be safely be placed on 1U SID or BID with very little monitoring.

RADIOACTIVE IODINE-131 FOR TREATMENT OF HYPERTHYROIDISM
OUTPATIENT DISCHARGE INFORMATION

INTRODUCTION
The thyroid glands are located in the neck of the cat are responsible for producing thyroid hormone. An excess of thyroid hormone production causes hyperthyroidism. The thyroid glands trap Iodine from the blood stream and concentrate it within the gland. When a cat is given radioactive iodine-131 the dose is concentrated in the thyroid gland. The radiation then destroys the overactive thyroid gland but doesn’t cause damage to other parts of the body.

Cats receive a single dose of radioactive iodine by either subcutaneous injection or by a capsule given by mouth. This single treatment will cure 95-98% of cats. It will take about a month for thyroid levels to return to normal in most cats. A small number of cats will remain hyperthyroid after treatment, if this is the case your cat will need to have either a second treatment or to use other medical or surgical methods of treatment. A small number of cats will have very low levels of thyroid function after treatment (hypothyroidism) that may require lifelong supplementation with thyroid hormone.

Side effects from radioactive iodine therapy are very rare, 1.5% cats will have temporary difficulty in swallowing or a change in voice.

WHAT ARE THE RISKS TO PEOPLE?
Compared to people cats receive quite a low dose of radioactive iodine-131 for the treatment of hyperthyroidism. This is because they are much smaller than people and have smaller thyroid glands. Even though your cat will be radioactive when it goes home, following our guide will ensure that any radiation exposure at home is well within the safe levels determined by the government.

The risk of radiation exposure comes both from your cat directly and also from any bodily fluids or wastes such as urine, saliva, faeces and vomit.

To help protect yourself and other in the house from radiation exposure you should follow some simple rules for the first 3 weeks

• Limit the time spent with your cat
• Maximise the distance between yourself and your cat – radiation levels drop very quickly as distance increases (by the inverse square law)

Children and unborn babies are more sensitive to radiation so children and pregnant women should not be responsible for caring for a treated cat for at least 21 days after treatment.

WHAT DO I HAVE TO DO AT HOME? For first 7 days

• Your cat must be housed in a room by itself for the first 7 days after treatment. This room must not be entered other than for brief periods to care for your cat. This room must be at least 2 metres from any area of the house that is frequently used, i.e. bedrooms, lounge room, kitchen. Think about any rooms that may be above or below the location in which the cat is housed.
• Your cat must use a litter tray with clumping flushable litter for the first 7 days.
• You must use disposable gloves when handling the litter tray. The litter tray must be carried to the toilet and the clumps of urine and faeces must be removed from the litter tray using a scoop and flushed down the toilet. This needs to be done twice daily for the first 7 days. The disposable gloves should be removed, placed in a plastic bag and discarded into the rubbish.
• The maximum amount of time that any individual person is to spend in close contact with the cat is 15 minutes per day. This time must include feeding, changing water and cleaning the litter tray. During this time you may stroke your cat but you may not pick it up or allow it to sit on you.
• Wash your hands after contact with your cat.

For Days 8-21 After Treatment

• Your cat is allowed inside and outside and does not need to be continuously confined.
• Your cat must not sleep in the same room as you for this period. Your cat should be a minimum of 1 metre from a bed, remember that radiation can travel through walls.
• You must limit close contact with your cat to 30 minutes per day for each person.
• The cats litter tray should be cleaned once daily using a scoop and wearing disposable gloves. Litter and gloves may be discarded with the household waste.
• Wash your hands after contact with your cat.

From 22 days after treatment you may treat your cat as normal as the levels of radiation will have fallen to very low levels.

WHAT DO I DO IF?

• My cat escapes in the first 7 days

Catch your cat and place it back in its room as soon as possible. Hold your cat at arms length if possible while moving it back to its room.

• My circumstances have changed and I cant follow the guidelines any more

Contact the Radiation Safety Officer at Creek Road Cat Clinic and we will develop a suitable plan. It may be necessary to admit your cat to hospital.

• My cat is unwell and needs to see a vet within 21 days of treatment

If possible see a vet at the Creek Road Cat Clinic, the clinic has a 24 hour emergency service. If this is not possible advise your vet that your cat has been treated with radioactive iodine-131, the dose and the date the treatment was given. Advise your vet to contact the Radiation Safety Officer at Creek Road Cat Clinic if they require advice on the safe handling of your cat.

• My cat urinates, defecates or vomits outside its litter tray

Use disposable gloves and paper towels to clean up the mess. Be very careful not to step in the mess. Flush any paper towels down the toilet and place the disposable gloves in a bag and place in the outside rubbish bin. Wash your hands thoroughly with soap and running warm water for at least 5 minutes. Contact the Radiation Safety Officer at Creek Road Cat Clinic.

• My cat scratches or bites me

Clean the wound under running water for at least 5 minutes. If the wound is bad seek medical attention and advise the medical staff that you have been bitten or scratched by a cat that has had radioactive iodine-131 treatment. While there will be some radioactivity transferred in saliva from a bite it will be a very small amount. Please contact the Radiation Safety Officer at Creek Road Cat Clinic

• I spill urine, faeces or vomit on my skin or clothes

You should remove any items of clothing that are contaminated and place them in a plastic bag. Wash any areas of skin that have been contaminated with soap under running warm water for at least 5 minutes. Clothes should be washed promptly. Contact the Radiation Safety Officer at Creek Road Cat Clinic for further instructions.

FOLLOW UP

• Please arrange an appointment with your regular vet for a physical examination, weight check and blood test for thyroid and kidney function 4-6 weeks after treatment.

Please do not hesitate to call the clinic if you have any questions or concerns.

RADIOACTIVE IODINE-131 FOR TREATMENT OF HYPERTHYROIDISM
INPATIENT DISCHARGE INFORMATION

INTRODUCTION
The thyroid glands are located in the neck of the cat are responsible for producing thyroid hormone. An excess of thyroid hormone production causes hyperthyroidism. The thyroid glands trap Iodine from the blood stream and concentrate it within the gland. When a cat is given radioactive iodine-131 the dose is concentrated in the thyroid gland. The radiation then destroys the overactive thyroid gland but doesn’t cause damage to other parts of the body.

Cats receive a single dose of radioactive iodine by either subcutaneous injection or by a capsule given by mouth. This single treatment will cure 95-98% of cats. It will take about a month for thyroid levels to return to normal in most cats. A small number of cats will remain hyperthyroid after treatment, if this is the case your cat will need to have either a second treatment or to use other medical or surgical methods of treatment. A small number of cats will have very low levels of thyroid function after treatment (hypothyroidism) that may require lifelong supplementation with thyroid hormone.

Side effects from radioactive iodine therapy are very rare, 1.5% cats will have temporary difficulty in swallowing or a change in voice.

WHAT ARE THE RISKS TO PEOPLE?
Compared to people cats receive quite a low dose of radioactive iodine-131 for the treatment of hyperthyroidism. This is because they are much smaller than people and have smaller thyroid glands. Even though your cat will still be mildly radioactive when it goes home, following our guide will ensure that any radiation exposure at home is well within the safe levels determined by the government.

The risk of radiation exposure comes both from the cat directly and also from any bodily fluids or wastes such as urine, saliva, faeces and vomit.

To help protect yourself and other in the house from radiation exposure you should follow some simple rules for the first 2 weeks

• Limit the time spent with your cat
• Maximise the distance between yourself and your cat – radiation levels drop very quickly as distance increases (by the inverse square law)

Children and unborn babies are more sensitive to radiation so children and pregnant women should not be responsible for caring for a treated cat for at least 21 days after the date of treatment; this is usually 14 days after your cat goes home.

WHAT DO I HAVE TO DO AT HOME? For Days 8-21 After Treatment

• Your cat is allowed inside and outside and does not need to be continuously confined.
• Your cat must not sleep in the same room as you for this period. Your cat should be a minimum of 1 metre from a bed, remember that radiation can travel through walls.
• You must limit close contact with your cat to 30 minutes per day for each person.
• The cat litter tray should be cleaned with a scoop once daily using disposable gloves. Litter may be discarded with the household waste.
• Wash your hands after contact with your cat.

From 22 days after treatment you may treat your cat as normal as the levels of radiation will have fallen to very low levels.

WHAT DO I DO IF?
• My circumstances have changed and I cant follow the guidelines any more

Contact the Radiation Safety Officer at Creek Road Cat Clinic and we will develop a suitable plan. It may be necessary to admit your cat to hospital.

• My cat is unwell and needs to see a vet within 21 days of treatment

If possible see a vet at the Creek Road Cat Clinic, the clinic has a 24 hour emergency service. If this is not possible advise your vet that your cat has been treated with radioactive iodine-131, the dose and the date the treatment was given. Advise your vet to contact the Radiation Safety Officer at Creek Road Cat Clinic if they require advice on the safe handling of your cat.

• My cat urinates, defecates or vomits outside its litter tray

Use disposable gloves and paper towels to clean up the mess. Be very careful not to step in the mess. Flush any paper towels down the toilet and place the disposable gloves in a bag and place in the outside rubbish bin. Wash your hands thoroughly with soap and warm running water for at least 5 minutes. Contact the Radiation Safety Officer at Creek Road Cat Clinic.

• My cat scratches or bites me

Clean the wound under running water for at least 5 minutes. If the wound is bad seek medical attention and advise the medical staff that you have been bitten or scratched by a cat that has had radioactive Iodine-131 treatment. While there will be some radioactivity transferred in saliva from a bite it will be a very small amount. Please contact the Radiation Safety Officer at Creek Road Cat Clinic

• I spill urine, faeces or vomit on my skin or clothes

You should remove any items of clothing that are contaminated and place them in a plastic bag. Wash any areas of skin that have been contaminated with soap and warm running water for at least 5 minutes. Clothes should be washed promptly. Contact the Radiation Safety Officer at Creek Road Cat Clinic for further instructions.

FOLLOW UP
• Please arrange an appointment with your regular vet for a physical examination, weight check and blood test for thyroid and kidney function 4-6 weeks after treatment.

Please do not hesitate to call the clinic if you have any questions or concerns.

What is pyothorax?

Pyothorax refers to the presence of infected fluid and bacteria (pus) within the chest cavity.

What causes pyothorax?

Pyothorax is usually caused by a bacterial infection in the chest cavity. Usually, pus is present in both sides of the chest although occasionally only one side will be affected.

The source of the infection is rarely found although possible causes include:-

1. Penetrating wounds to the chest wall.

2. Wounds to internal structures such as the oesophagus (food pipe), trachea (wind pipe) for example following ingestion or inhalation of a foreign body.

3. Migrating foreign body such as a grass seed which entered the body elsewhere.

4. Extension of infection from a lung infection (pneumonia) – this is the most likely cause in the majority of cases.

What are the clinical signs seen with pyothorax?

Rapid shallow breathing which may be painful, depression, lethargy and other signs of ill health such as a reluctance to eat are seen in most cats with pyothorax. The severity of these signs is extremely variable and rarely cats may suddenly die without having had any previous signs of illness.

Cats with pyothorax usually have a high temperature which contributes to some of the clinical signs seen. The breathlessness is caused by the presence of fluid in the chest which prevents the normal expansion of the lungs.

Pectus excavatum is a congenital malformation of the sternum and costochondral cartilages resulting in a ventral dorsal narrowing of the chest or a depression of the sternum into the chest cavity. This deformity reduces effective pulmonary function and may also interfere with cardiac function.
Causes that have been discussed have included congenital predisposition, intrauterine pressure abnormalities, shortening of the central tendon of the diaphragm, thickened substernal ligament, congenital deficiency of the musculature in the cranial diaphragm, abnormal osteogenesis and chondrogenesis, upper respiratory obstruction, environmental factors, and posturing difficulties.
In humans, it is more frequently found in males and may be inherited as an autosomal dominant characteristic. In one survey it was twice as frequent in male than female cats, but not in dogs.
Signs often include exercise intolerance, weight loss, dyspnea, pneumonia, cyanosis, coughing, postural deficits. A heart murmur may be asculted and echocardiography is recommended to exclude the possibility of a concurrent primary heart disease. This is especially true in older cats that develop clinical signs as adults. It has been associated with other congenital defects e.g. pericardio-diaphragmatic hernia.
Radiographic findings may include decreased thoracic volume, cardiomegaly, and left displacement of the cardiac silhouette.

Causes:
Congenital, Genetic, hereditary

Sex predilection:
Male

Age predilection:
Juvenile
Newborn

Clinical findings:
AFEBRILE, ANOREXIA, CARDIAC MURMUR, COUGHING, CYANOSIS, DYSPNEA, GAIT ABNORMAL, WEAKNESS
Cachexia, Malaise, Weight gain insufficient
Exercise intolerant or reluctant to move, Walking difficulty
Heart sounds muffled, moist lung noises
Rapid breathing, Panting, Hyperventilation, Restrictive breathing pattern
Pulmonary infections recurrent

Diagnosis:
Thoracic radiographs showing cardiac displacement, cardiomegally, lordosis and sternal concavity.

Treatment/Management/Prevention:
SPECIFIC
1. Those with moderate to severe deformity should be treated surgically with placement of an external fiberglass splint contoured to normal thoracic shape.  One possible adverse side effect of exteral splint correction is re-expansion pulmonary edema.
2. Older patients who have less thoracic compliance may benefit from a partial sternectomy.

To understand your cats kidney disease (renal disease), it is important to know some background information about the roles and functions of the kidneys.

The kidneys perform a number of essential roles necessary to sustain life.  The major ones are:

• Removal of waste products from the blood stream (urea and creatinine)
• Regulation of body water
• Balance of acid-base and electrolytes
• Production of erythropoietin, a hormone necessary for production of blood cells.

Each kidney contains about 200,000 nephrons, tiny units that perform those functions.  Kidney disease occurs when nephrons are destroyed.  If enough nephrons are destroyed that the kidneys can no longer perform their essential functions, kidney failure results.

Causes of Kidney Disease

There are numerous causes of chronic kidney disease in the cat and they can be very broadly classified into the following categories:

• Inflammation
• Infection
• Congenital or hereditary problems
• Toxins
• Cancer

Chronic Renal Insufficiency (CRI)

As nephrons are destroyed, the kidney becomes damaged, and it can’t perform normally.  The cat enters a stage of chronic renal insufficiency (CRI). She will be able to excrete waste products and maintain her weight, but will drink more water in order to do it.

Cats may remain in this stage for several weeks to several years. They may be relatively healthy unless they get stressed or sick.

Chronic Renal Failure (CRF)

Eventually all cats will enter a stage of chronic renal failure (CRF), which is the progression of disease which results in build up of waste products, dehydration, anaemia and eventually death.

Clinical signs of kidney failure

• Excessive drinking or urinating
• Weight loss
• Poor appetite
• Lethargy
• Vomiting
• Bad breath and mouth ulceration
• Unkempt or dull fur coat

Diagnosis
The most common way of diagnosing kidney disease is with blood and urine tests. Unfortunately, demonstrating a high level of waste products (urea/creatinine) in the blood tells us that the kidneys are not working properly, but it does not tell us what has caused the initial problem. Additional tests are often needed and may include:

• Urinalysis, where we look at urine concentration, and the presence of glucose, protein, blood, bacteria, crystals and cells in the urine
• Urine culture and sensitivity if infection is suspected
• Abdominal ultrasound
• Abdominal X-ray
• Needle aspirates or biopsies.  This is often done under ultrasound guidance if the kidneys are enlarged.
• Other tests, such as excretion tests, protein:creatinine ratios, etc

It is important to identify the cause as many diseases are treatable. In many cases it is impossible to identify the underlying cause without the use of these additional tests.

Treatment

The treatment for kidney disease will be different for every cat, depending on the cause and severity of the disease. These include:

• Fluid therapy (intravenous or subcutaneous)
• Dietary protein restriction
• Dietary phosphorus restriction
• Controlling high blood pressure
• Iron and specific vitamins
• Appetite stimulants
• Erythropoietin
• Kidney transplantation
• Other specific treatments depending on the cause of kidney disease

Most cats with renal insufficiency will be treated with a special. In many cases this will prevent the progression of disease for many months and even years.

If your cat has been diagnosed with chronic renal insufficiency, she should see a veterinary every 3 months in order to record her body weight, get blood and urine samples and measure her blood pressure. This careful monitoring allows the vet to change her treatment if it becomes necessary.

The treatment for cats with chronic kidney failure will depend on many factors and may change as the disease progresses. Most cats will be treated with special diets, vitamins, iron, appetite stimulants, subcutaneous fluids and, if anaemic, will receive erythropoietin injections.

Kidney Transplantation

Is a procedure commonly performed in many parts of the world and is accepted as the treatment of choice in some circumstances. Dr Vic Menrath pioneered this procedure in Australia and for 15 years The Cat Clinic operated the only kidney transplant program outside the United States. Unfortunately our transplant program has been temporarily closed down but we hope to offer this procedure again in the near future.

Outcome for Cats with Chronic Renal Failure
With early diagnosis and appropriate therapy, cats may live for years with chronic renal failure. It is impossible to give an accurate prognosis or life expectancy as there is a lot of variation between individual cats and the type of kidney disease present.

When is it time?
Chronic renal failure is usually a progressive condition. Our aim is to slow the progression as much as possible and maintain a good quality of life for your cat.

As the disease progresses, your cat will get weaker and sicker, and she will eventually die.  This is a very emotional time and careful assessment of your cat’s condition needs to be made.

As a general rule, once your cat loses his appetite despite our therapy, we will recommend that he should be put to sleep. The “right time” will be very different for every cat and for every owner. We will always be available to discuss your situation and do our best to make things as comfortable as possible for you and your cat.

Water Intake Test

Water intake tests are very important to help us work out whether your cat is drinking too much water. Some diseases make cats drink more water than they should. Monitoring the water intake can be an important part of checking the response to treatment for diabetic cats.

Water intake can vary depending on many factors, including the weather, the type of food your cat eats and how much activity he or she does. Consequently the amount of water your cat drinks can vary from day to day. Because of this, we do a Water Intake Test over 2 consecutive days (2x 24 hour periods) so that we can average out how much is actually taken.

It is very difficult to assess water intake if there is more than one animal in the household, as they share water sources. To do a Water Intake Test accurately, animals may need to be kept separate over the time of the test. Alternatively they may need to be hospitalised so that they only get to drink from one source.

Step 1: Empty out all bowls that your cat normally drinks from, inside and outside the house.

Step 2: Measure exactly how much water you add to each bowl. Make a note of this.

Step 3: Don’t allow the bowl to be empty of water. Note down the amount of water you add to the bowl during the day and add this figure to the figure from Step 2.

Step 4: After 24 hours, measure exactly how much water is left in each bowl or bucket.

Step 5: Subtract the amount left over from the amount in Step 3.

Step 6: Repeat Steps 1-5 over 1 more 24-hour period.

Bring your calculations into the clinic or call us so we can assess the amount taken in and work out whether this is normal or abnormal.

What is spraying?

Urine spraying is part of the cat’s normal scent-marking behavioural repertoire which also includes scratching, rubbing, chinning, bunting (depositing secretions from head glands on twigs etc., and middening (leaving faeces uncovered). Using these scent markers cats can deter others from their range and cats which share a hunting range can avoid one another without coming into direct conflict.  Spraying is also designed to help females in oestrus (‘in season’ or ‘on heat’) to attract males for breeding.  When spraying the cat stands with its tail vertical (often quivering at the tip) while it delivers a squirt  of urine backwards onto a vertical surface.  This spray probably contains information about sex, age, hormonal state, assertiveness and general health.

Why do cats spray?

Cats may spray when frustrated, upset or subject to competition or challenge and spraying can be interpreted as the cat increasing its own sense of security by surrounding itself with signals of its own occupancy in its territory.  The more anxious the individual, the more he or she will need familiar odours for comfort.

Do only tom cats spray?

No, all cats, male or female, neutered or not, may spray, usually outside where we may not see them.  Un-neutered toms and queens in oestrus will spray more.

Why do cats spray indoors?

Most neutered pet cats feel sufficiently relaxed in their own home and do not spray.  They identify it by rubbing scent from their body and do not need to mark by spraying, scratching or middening.  The most common sites for indoor spraying are near entrances to the house or room, curtains and new items brought into the house, e.g., plastic bags, new furniture etc., although individuals may have their own idiosyncratic targets such as washing machines, video players or even certain people!  As with most behavioural problems a little detective work may be needed to get to the root of the behaviour problem.   While there may be no ‘quick fix’ solution in some cases, helping to find and understand the motivation for the behaviour will help while you work towards a solution.

There can be many triggers for a cat marking indoors:-

1.      The arrival of a new cat, dog or person in the family, or a bereavement.

2.      Changes in the home area such as furniture or new carpets. Disruptions such as  building work.

3.      Installation of a cat flap which can make the cat feel insecure indoors.

4.      In rare cases, spraying can be a learned  attention-getting behaviour.

Occasionally urine marking may be carried out from a squatting position usually on the floor, but often on bedcovers or chairs. The cat may still use the litter tray for eliminating larger volumes of urine.  This often occurs when owners leave their cat at home but in their neighbour’s care when they go on holiday and may be a form of ‘associative ‘marking – the cat feeling anxious because it is alone, is relieved when it associates its smell with that of the owner – usually in a spot where the owner’s smell is concentrated such as on the bed or armchair.

Can urinary tract infections cause spraying behaviour

Quite commonly cats with urinary tract infections or inflammation will also spray urine. For this reason, it is important for the veterinarian to perform a urinalysis on all spraying cats to ensure that the correct therapy is instituted. The treatment for a urinary tract infection will be very different to behavioural spraying so a correct diagnosis is necessary.

Can the problem be treated?

Cats marking indoors clearly require a clear and extensive approach to diagnosis of cause(s) and careful development of treatment which will not unsettle them even more!  It is vital to discover under which situations the problems occur as treatment often depends on defining any specific anxiety-inducing trigger(s) for the behaviour.

It is useful to know the following:-

1.      When did the problem first occur?

2.      Which people or other animals are normally present in the house.  What are the attitudes of all the family towards the cat.  What are they doing before, during and after the problem occurs.

3.      Are there any other behaviour problems in the cat or its feline housemates and is it receiving any medical treatment?

4.      Where is the marking occurring?  The layout of the house and even the garden may be important.  Are there rival cats outside?

5.      What is the cat’s daily routine?  Does it have free access to outside?  Where does it eat and sleep, how much time is spent interacting with the owner and what do they do together.

6.      What methods have already been tried to solve the problem?  How are the marks cleaned?

The main aim of treatment is to reduce the perceived threat to the cat and make it feel more secure in its home territory, thus reducing its levels of arousal and curtailing the need to scent mark.  Identifiable sources of stress should be removed, e.g., by excluding local rival cats from entering the home by blocking the cat flap or replacing it with a selective one.  Carefully introduced friendly routines of handling, feeding and playing will help provide reassurance, providing such contact does not further alarm the cat at any stage.  In many cases there may be no single obvious threat and the cat’s behaviour may be the result of the cumulative effect of several influences.  If such sources of stress cannot be removed or even fully identified the cat should be provided with a safe haven of a small core territory of one room in the house to which it can safely retreat or be placed to relax without fear of disturbance for regular periods and where it should only feel the need to mark normally by rubbing and bunting.

Often people simply become ‘over-catted’ – they enjoy their feline housemates and because one extra takes up little more physical space and is no more effort to feed, they will continue to collect more.  This may be fine until a certain mix of characters just doesn’t gel and relations within the group become strained and spraying begins.  Careful introductions can help but sometimes certain individuals simply cannot share a home without stress and it is better to re home one or more.  Although this may not be a popular decision, it may be the only option if home hygiene is to be maintained as trying to manage the problems can be very difficult with a number of cats and associated variables.

All forms of punishment should be discontinued (even if the cat is ‘caught in the act’) as this is only likely to raise the cat’s level of arousal and anxiety.  You may feel often angry and want to react if you catch the cat ‘in the act’, however, stopping all punishment and threatening behaviour is an essential first step towards improvement.

Placing food (dry food is best) or a bed at the base of spraying sites is often helpful at protecting those particular areas as cats are extremely reluctant to spray their own key resources, although they may simply move to other areas and mark there instead.  Food and beds are also reassuring and may reduce anxiety.

Spraying can be triggered by the smell of previous marks so marked areas should be thoroughly cleaned (not with ammonia-based products as ammonia is a constituent of cat urine).  A damp cloth should be used to remove any fresh urine marks and while some commercially available ‘urine digester’ products remove the smell (to the sensitivity of the human nose at least), no data has been published on relative efficacies.  An enzymatic or biological washing powder or liquid may be just as effective at removing residues.  Follow  with agitation using a light brush with a low grade alcohol (test the colour fastness of material/carpets first).

It is unlikely that spraying will be effectively resolved with drugs without trying to ascertain the cause of the problem and without employing management changes and behaviour modifications.  Some very good drugs are available but their use should be based on sound understanding of the problem, cat and the effects of the drug on the feline physiology.  Drugs should alter a cat’s mood to enable it to learn new forms of behaviour and the drugs should then be withdrawn. Recently a plug in diffuser called “FELIWAY” has been available which supplies a feline facial pheromenone to a 75m2 area and has been very effective controlling many feline behavioural problems incuding urine spraying.